Mavi Zambak

Built in the X century it lies in one of the country’s most beautiful areas, the very site of the Armenian genocide occurred. The journalist Hrant Dink, killed a months ago, had asked for the churches restoration and reopening. For years the ancient frescos had been used for target practice; the sacred building blackened by barbecue smoke for picnics. Armenian religious authorities protest. Patriarch Mesrob II refuses to participate in the ceremony.

The ceremony marking the first anniversary of the missionary’s murder went off without a hitch. His mother and sisters were present at the ceremony. The mayor of the Turkish city and the parents of the young assassin also attended the event.

There are small signs of the will to break free of nationalistic blindness and an environment that has generated the murder of the priest and the journalist Dink. The priest’s relatives and the Vicar of Rome, Cardinal Camillo Ruini, will be present at the commemoration ceremony.

Hundreds of thousands participate in silence, of diverse religions and ethnic backgrounds. A funeral euology by his wife and the homily by the Armenian Patriarch Mesrob II. Absent Erdogan and Prodi.

In both cases, killers are from Trabzon, are minors, have ties with far-right circles, have no regrets and said they were acting in the nation's defence. A Christian accuses Turkish newspapers: "You killed him," by denying the genocide of the Armenians and refusing a historical inquest.

After assassination of the journalist of Armenian origin in Istanbul, spontaneous demonstrations on the streets of many cities demand “truth and freedom”. Suspicion falls on groups of nationalist fanatics, who roam the country; but still nothing official.

Hrant Dink, editor of Agos, had received death threats and in 2005 had been condemned for "insulting Turkish national identity."

Slander and bureaucratic excuses face an Italian man, his Turkish wife and their two children as they seek to preserve the only Christian building in Samsun. They hope the journey of the Pope will bring true religious freedom to Turkey.

Benedict XVI has returned to Rome, but they're still celebrating his visit at Istanbul's cathedral. "After having felt the Pope's closeness, we feel stronger." The Muslim community also sees the visit positively; the Pope's prayers in the mosque overshadow the Regensburg controversy.

Christians must travel for 18 hours to participate in mass with Benedict XVI in Ephesus. The pontiff's words in yesterday's Angelus about the "dear Turkish people" have been described by the media as a "warm and friendly message".

Turkey's PM changes his mind and is now prepared to meet Benedict XVI at Ankara Airport, but his indecisiveness dissatisfies both Islamo-nationalists and secular Kemalists. Security arrangements, meanwhile, are being stepped up.

Every day, the nationalist press looks for excuses to make it seem as if the papal visit is annoying even for those people who are not against it. According to a survey, only 10% of Turks approve the pope's visit, 38% are decidedly against while another 38% are indifferent. And 14% preferred not to express their opinion. But now Erdogan says he will do all he can to meet Benedict XVI on 30 November.