Armenia's (stuffed) pumpkin far deeper than Halloween

The traditional dish that has been celebrated in Yerevan for centuries at the end of October to mark the end of the harvest is a thanksgiving for nature's generosity and a wish for a peaceful winter for those engaged in agricultural work. The filling with thousands of grains of rice represents the whole of humanity, which absorbs the sweetness of the other ingredients inside the pumpkin without losing its own specificity.

Yerevan (AsiaNews) - One of the first hotbeds of Armenian national cuisine, the Taverne Pandok, is at the origin of one of the most beloved festivals in Yerevan, Khapama Day at the end of October, which celebrates the end of the harvest and the beginning of the cold season. It consists of a stuffed pumpkin that is considered a culinary offering expressing hospitality towards guests, patrons and tourists.

Stuffed with rice, walnuts, dried fruit and raisins with honey, khapama is considered the “pearl of Armenian cuisine”, with its own important ritual history, as is typical of this ancient country in the South Caucasus, well before the hollowed-out pumpkins of Halloween.

In fact, there is a very traditional song whose chorus everyone sings in unison during this time of year, starting with the children: “Hey, friend khapama, delicious and aromatic khapama / Hey, friend khapama, khapama with honey”.

In ancient times, khapama was considered the “crown of the festive table”, and in addition to the autumn festival, it is prepared on many occasions such as New Year's Eve, the Barekendan festival (Armenian Carnival), Easter, the most pompous weddings and other special occasions.

When the harvests have been fruitful and the master is satisfied, a particularly large khapama is prepared as a thank you to nature's generosity and as a wish for a peaceful winter for those who are truly committed to agricultural work.

The hollowed-out pumpkin symbolises time and life, which is generously filled with all the contents of the stuffing thanks to the hard work of men. The mother of the family chooses the best pumpkin, bright orange in colour, to make it resemble the sun, large and round, baked in the oven and on hot coals.

Thousands of grains of rice are added to represent the whole of humanity, which inside the pumpkin absorbs the sweetness of the ingredients without losing its own specific taste and natural appearance. This is why khapama is considered a symbol of peaceful coexistence among people.

Traditionally, khapama should be eaten down to the last bite, knowing that pumpkin is also good for the health of people of all ages, with its wealth of vitamins. The most renowned chefs compete to prepare it creatively, but always respecting the classic recipe, the original one from the taverns of Yerevan. Selected walnuts, pure honey, healthy pumpkin and high-quality rice make the dish at Taverne Pandok a popular and refined speciality.

From 24 October to 1 November, all restaurants in the Armenian capital offer a special khapama festival menu, especially the “coastal” restaurants on the banks of the Hrazdan River, which divides the city into two parts through a picturesque canyon, in the basin of mountain ranges between 800 and 1400 metres high, overlooking the peak of the sacred Mount Ararat, which marks the border with Turkey.

The tasting of pumpkin is accompanied in restaurants and on the streets by songs and dances, celebrating the many legends of Armenian history, always marked by great culinary traditions, because every dish and product of the earth recalls ancient events and eras, giving strength and enthusiasm to face the future.