At Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, Prada presented leather sandals identical in design to the traditional Kolhapuri chappal of Maharashtra, without any acknowledgement of the Chamar artisans, one of India's indigenous and outcast tribes. The high price and the distribution of leather rings during the show to emphasise the sandal's distinctive detail sparked protests on Indian social media. Activists have long been calling on fashion houses to recognise cultural origins and share profits with local communities.

Mumbai (AsiaNews) - Luxury fashion appropriating indigenous designs is back in the spotlight: this time it is Prada that has ended up at the centre of controversy for presenting a pair of leather sandals resembling traditional ‘Kolhapuri chappal’ footwear from the Indian state of Maharashtra at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026.

A debate immediately erupted on Indian social media: no mention was made of the origin of the design at the fashion show, nor was any acknowledgement given to the artisans who have kept this tradition alive for generations.

The sandals, which bear no reference to India, were featured in at least seven of the 56 looks on the catwalk. Characterised by their leather construction, thin straps and typical toe ring, they are available on the market at prices of up to €1,300. The fashion house, led by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, even distributed symbolic leather rings during the event to highlight this detail.

The reaction on social media was immediate. One user wrote on X: “Prada is selling Kolhapuri chappals for ₹1.2 lakh. These shoes, part of Maharashtra's heritage, can be found in Kolhapur markets for ₹300–₹1500. Prada puts its logo on them, calls them 'leather sandals” and erases their cultural roots. It's not luxury, it's theft.'

Another pointed out: “This design was stolen from the Chamar community in India, who have been making them by hand for generations. No credit. No recognition. Just cultural appropriation masquerading as a luxury brand.”

Similar incidents have prompted more voices to call for big brands to not only acknowledge the origins of traditional designs, but also share some of the profits with the artisans who produce the original products.

The Chamar are one of many indigenous Dalit groups that fall under the Scheduled Caste and Tribes, the aboriginal peoples recognised by the Indian Constitution. They live mainly in northern India and traditionally work in tanneries (their name derives from the Sanskrit “charmakara”, meaning leather worker), a humble occupation that the upper castes in India do not engage in to avoid contact with dead animals.

In fact, the Chamar people of the Dharavi slums in Mumbai have created their own brand: in 2018, Sudheer Rajbhar founded Chamar Studio, a sustainable brand that brings together the work of local artisans. Their bags are priced between £20 and £75. In recent months, Rahul Gandhi, leader of the Congress, India's main opposition party, visited the workshop to tell its success story.

(Nirmala Carvalho cooperated)

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