by Silvia Torriti

From a niche hobby introduced by Japan, the trend of dressing up as comic book characters or historical figures from ancient times continues to grow among young people in China, fuelling a market that is now worth over billion. The local variant of “Hanfu” is spreading Chinese national identity among Generation Z.

Milan (AsiaNews) - Wandering around China's large urban centres, you may sometimes notice young people dressed as characters from anime or manga, video game heroes, or historical figures from antiquity.

From a niche hobby introduced by Japan in the late 1980s, cosplay is becoming an increasingly significant cultural phenomenon. According to data from iiMedia Research, the number of ACG enthusiasts - an acronym for ‘animation, comics and games’ - in China has increased from 212 million in 2017 to 503 million in 2024, about half of whom are between the ages of 18 and 24. For the latter, identifying with their favourite fantasy character is much more than just a hobby: it is a way of expressing their personality and aesthetic taste.

The Chinese cosplay market is also booming: valued at £12.24 billion in 2025, it is expected to reach £22.13 billion by 2033, with an average annual growth rate of 10.37%.

Underlying this increase is the growing demand for cosplay costumes and accessories, which have become more accessible thanks to online shopping platforms. A simple search on Taobao, one of China's leading e-shops, shows that some wigs used by cosplayers have even exceeded 10,000 units sold per month, while the Q&A section is full of discussions about specific character costumes.

Equally decisive has been the emergence of professional cosplayers and young influencers, who have turned their passion for ACG into a real profession. Many of them perform at anime conventions or offer personalised make-up, styling and photography services.

Finally, it should not be forgotten that China is one of the leading exporters of cosplay accessories and merchandise. The great success of recent “made in China” entertainment products, such as “Black Myth: Wukong” – a role-playing game inspired by the famous classic novel “Journey to the West” – and the animated film “Ne Zha 2: Rise of the Fire Warrior”, has helped to give greater international visibility to the Chinese ACG world.

One of the best-known cosplay phenomena is undoubtedly the so-called “Hanfu movement”, which involves wearing costumes belonging to Chinese historical tradition. The Chinese word “hanfu” means “Han clothing”, referring to the ethnic group to which the vast majority of the Chinese population belongs.

As recent studies confirm, the rediscovery of hanfu since the early 2000s is much more than a simple revival. Rather, it represents a form of resistance to the aesthetics imposed by Western fashion and an attempt to reaffirm China's national identity, which was severely damaged during the 20th century.

For Han Dan, a professor at Northeast Normal University in the northeastern province of Jilin, the “hanfu craze” has been fuelled by “China's rapid economic growth, which has enriched both material and spiritual life, as well as strong national support for the preservation of traditional culture”. Therefore, Han says, “Generation Z, which grew up in a period of prosperity and well-being, feels a strong affinity and love for traditional culture”.

The first hanfu enthusiasts called themselves tongpao, or ‘comrades’, and gathered in online communities. Soon, however, they began to organise in-person events, where they showed off clothes and accessories that faithfully reproduced those described in ancient literary works and historical documents.

More recently, wearing hanfu has become a popular activity among tourists. Many Chinese historical sites offer the opportunity to rent traditional clothing for photo shoots or to immerse oneself in the cultural experience, giving the feeling of travelling back in time.

However, the new trend in the Chinese ACG world is represented by kigurumi, a Japanese word that refers to the practice of wearing costumes consisting of tights and masks that allow you to transform yourself into 2D “living dolls”. Unlike the more common cosplay, kig involves completely covering the person's face and body.

Given the growing interest in this form of dressing up, there are those like Li Mingwei, a young Chinese entrepreneur with a passion for anime and manga, who have decided to invest in the sector by opening a workshop dedicated to the production of anime-style headwear.

With his brand, Ouyu Kigland, Li has set himself the goal of creating quality products at affordable prices by experimenting with innovative technologies and systems, including the use of artificial intelligence. Considering that kig masks are usually very expensive, costing tens of thousands of yuan, Li's initiative has been so successful that he has expanded his business to focus on large-scale production.

Regardless of your preferred cosplay style, there is no shortage of opportunities to show off and share your passion with other fantasy costume lovers. China hosts some of the biggest ACG events in Asia, such as the China Cosplay Super Gala, held annually in Hangzhou as part of the China International Cartoon and Animation Festival.

Beijing hosts the IJOY International Animation and Game Carnival, famous for its cosplay competitions and hanfu shows. Then there is the Anime Carnival in Guangzhou, which transforms shopping centres into fantasy worlds, with parades, shows and activities for families.

Other important events include the Bilibili World convention in Shanghai and the ChinaJoy and CCG Expo fairs, which attract hundreds of thousands of fans every year.